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THE TOWN
The
history of the town of San Terenzo is very ancient. It originated
as a town in which predominantly fishermen lived and has maintained
its integrity throughout the centuries as a typical fishing village
in the region of Liguria.
San Terenzo is located just 2 kilometers from Lerici and incorporates
all in one the beautiful sea, a wide stretch of beach, and the
multi-colored emotions of the unmistakable Ligurian homes, in
the balance between the emerald colored Mediterranean vegetation
and the golden hue of the sand which brushes up against the clear
colored waters of the bay.
In the Middle Ages, San Terenzo achieved a great importance due
to a "Hospital" which was located there, and the memory
of the Crusades is still present both in its legends as well as
in the names of places such as "the tomb of the crusader"
and "Orlando's rock" which legend tells us was broken
in two by the fury of the knight.
The Castle also dates back to the Middle Ages as a fortress built
by the town's inhabitants on top of a cliff overlooking the sea.
Nowadays the Castle hosts numerous art exhibits and various other
cultural events which certainly liven up the San Terenzo summers.
Beneath the walls of the castle and towards the west, there lies
a very evocative promenade, which also supports the structure
and the tower and ends in a little beach with crystal clear water.
This promenade also represents the actual "castle to castle
walk" which leads the tourist from San Terenzo to Lerici.
The church was built around the 1600's on top of the remains of
an even more antique one and is located in the center of town.
It is dedicated to the nativity of the Virgin Mary and contains
a tablet of the "Madonna dell'Arena" from the fifteenth
century and a large painting from the end of the seventeenth century
by Paolo Gerolamo Piola, formerly thought to be painted by Domenico
Fiasella.
The Origin of the Name
The ancient name of the town was Portiolo (perhaps an olive oil
port or little port). The name changed many centuries ago to San
Terenzo in honor of a wealthy pilgrim who came from far away Scotland
and settled on the coast of the bay.
After having been hosted by the town residents, he donated many
material and spiritual goods to them and was thereby appointed
Bishop of Luni.
He then continued his journey towards Rome but was assaulted and
killed by bandits; his body was buried in San Terenzo ai Monti
in the nearby province of Massa-Carrara. Even after many centuries,
the townspeople remembered this good person and renamed their
town with his name - hence San Terenzo. However, the origin of
the name and the exact chronology of this noble pilgrim's history
still remains uncertain. The oldest document which mention's the
town with its current name dates back to March 6th, 1218 and is
contained in the Pelavicino document.
The fortunate location of San Terenzo with its homes that rise
directly from the water, the total isolation of the town surrounded
by its lush green hills, made it an ideal refuge for poets and
intellectuals alike.
The
Characters
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Percy
B. Shelley
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San
Terenzo, at one point in time a small village and independent
township during the Napoleonic times, began to be noticed
thanks to poets like Shelley and Byron, and not only.
Percy Bysshe Shelley lived in Villa Magni, the white house
facing the sea with the arched
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Lord
Byron
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colonnade
located at the eastern end of the town; his wife Mary Shelley,
author of the famous novel "Frankenstein" also
lived there with him.
Not
too far away in the little tower on top of Villa Marigola,
Sem Benelli wrote "La Cena delle Beffe" while
Paolo Mantegazza, a poet, scientist, anthropologist, pathologist
and hygienist, lived in Via del Campo.
There
is a stone plaque along the walls of Via Matteotti close
to the church which commemorates Paolo Azzarini "Ipsilonne",
as a courageous sailor from San Terenzo who was chosen to
rescue Garibaldi from the Tuscan coast to Portovenere.
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History
and Legends
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Paolo
Mantegazza
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The
very famous anthropologist Paolo Mantegazza stayed here
at length and thereafter decided to live out the rest
of his years in San Terenzo. He died in San Terenzo in
1910 and used these words to describe the area. "You
ask me what and where is San Terenzo? I will tell you
right away: it is one of the most beautiful and dear paradises
that the sea conceals in its coastline, in which two lovely
things were born : Greek and Latin civilization and Venus;
which is like saying the two greatest joys of mankind:
science and love. San Terenzo is a hidden treasure in
between two blue oceans which are the sky and sea; no
other bathing is as poetic or as fresh; the air is never
too hot in the summer not too cold in the winter; it is
an everlasting alternating of enchanting temperatures
which people fall in love with. The palm trees, lemon
trees and rose bushes flourish as if they were in their
own house and I, like a modest and fragile human plant
that I am, have also flourished here for a quarter century,
hoping to stay for another quarter century. This is what
and where San Terenzo is".
The town of San Terenzo rises beneath a promontory which
is called Falconara (also known as Fenociaria centuries
ago). This town is located at the extreme western side
of the Gulf of Lerici. The antique name of the town was
"portiolo portus olei", but later assumed the
name of San Terenzo in honor of a Scottish pilgrim who
came through. We can also find San Terenzo as a commercial
reference at the end of the 1400's when the Republic of
Genova was purchasing bricks and at the same time, the
sand from its beaches was used to cut marble from the
Apuan Mountains. Later on, Matteo Vinzoni, a cartographer,
traced a map of San Terenzo from the end of the 1700's,
seen as a little village which was almost entirely located
between the castle, Via Trogu and Piazza Dentro which
is known as Via Azzarini nowadays.
The Land Loved By Shelley
The
town, situated on the coastline between two blue crystal
clear bays known as Venere Azzurra and Baia Blu, had already
sparked the attention of the romantic English writers
back at the beginning of the 1800's for the intense blue
color of its waters and its pink colored sand. Percy Bysshe
Shelley would vacation there with his wife Mary and right
in this village, unforgettable pages of English literature
were born.
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Mary
Shelley
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Shelley
and his wife Mary stayed with another couple in Villa
Magni, a white house located along the coastline, which
at the time, was quite isolated from the rest of town.
Shelley left San Terenzo onboard the "Ariel"
from which he was shipwrecked. People say that the spirit
of this romantic English poet still lives on between the
inlets and the rocky points of Marinella, which have maintained
their charm and bewitched this English poet. After many
years, a Swiss painter named Arnold Bocklin captured the
emotions conveyed by the coastline, the rocks, and the
vegetation on his canvas. Other beautiful works of art
which depict the San Terenzo bay are exhibited in several
Russian museums and were painted by Nikolaj Nikolaevic
Ge.
"I still live in this divine bay, reading Spanish
plays, sailing and listening to the most enchanting music".
So wrote Percy Bysshe Shelley from San Terenzo in 1822.
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The Church Parish
The current architectural design of the parish of Santa Maria
Assunta dell'Arena (Madona dell'Arena) is attributed to a reconstruction
in 1919 on the existing foundation of an older church, a branch
of Pieve of Trebiano. Of all the subsequent revisions made between
1740 and 1922, the most obvious one was the shifting of the bell
tower from the façade to the side of the church. The statues
from the façade, made from Carrara marble, have been recently
restored, and were not originally located in that spot. The inside
is decorated by Baroque style stucco work dating back to the latter
half of the 1800's. This stucco work is characterized by a transetto
and side chapels. There is a marble slab in the apse which depicts
in relief the Saints Fabiano, Rocco and Sebastiano (second half
of the 16th century).
Another work of art also worth mentioning is the canvas by Paolo
Gerolamo Piola (end of 17th century), also thought by some people
to have been made by Fiasella.
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Villa
Magni
"An
antique house, rough, with its feet in the water, defended
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Villa
Magni
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by
an evergreen mountain of oak pines, with a terrace and little
portico which lead to the sea. More like a ship than a house!"
This is how Paolo Mantegazza described Villa Magni during
the period in which Shelley and Williams lived in San Terenzo.
The Magni house originated as part of a monastery of the
Barnabite priests, but throughout the centuries changed
ownership many times, being that it was desired as a residence
by noble families.
Its park is currently used for several local events and
also as an outdoor movie venue during the summer months. |
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