|
The
history of the town of San Terenzo is very ancient.
It originated as a town in which predominantly
fishermen lived and has maintained its integrity
throughout the centuries as a typical fishing
village in the region of Liguria.
San
Terenzo is located just 2 kilometers from Lerici and
incorporates all in one the beautiful sea, a wide
stretch of beach, and the multi-colored emotions of
the unmistakable Ligurian homes, in the balance
between the emerald colored Mediterranean vegetation
and the golden hue of the sand which brushes up
against the clear colored waters of the bay.
In the
Middle Ages, San Terenzo achieved a great importance
due to a "Hospital" which was located there, and the
memory of the Crusades is still present both in its
legends as well as in the names of places such as
"the tomb of the crusader" and "Orlando's rock"
which legend tells us was broken in two by the fury
of the knight.
The Castle also dates back to the Middle Ages as a
fortress built by the town's inhabitants on top of a
cliff overlooking the sea. Nowadays the Castle hosts
numerous art exhibits and various other cultural
events which certainly liven up the San Terenzo
summers.
Beneath
the walls of the castle and towards the west, there
lies a very evocative promenade, which also supports
the structure and the tower and ends in a little
beach with crystal clear water.
This
promenade also represents the actual "castle to
castle walk" which leads the tourist from San
Terenzo to Lerici.
The
church was built around the 1600's on top of the
remains of an even more antique one and is located
in the center of town. It is dedicated to the
nativity of the Virgin Mary and contains a tablet of
the "Madonna dell'Arena" from the fifteenth century
and a large painting from the end of the seventeenth
century by Paolo Gerolamo Piola, formerly thought to
be painted by Domenico Fiasella.
The
Origin of the Name
The
ancient name of the town was Portiolo (perhaps an
olive oil port or little port). The name changed
many centuries ago to San Terenzo in honor of a
wealthy pilgrim who came from far away Scotland and
settled on the coast of the bay.
After
having been hosted by the town residents, he donated
many material and spiritual goods to them and was
thereby appointed Bishop of Luni.
He then
continued his journey towards Rome but was assaulted
and killed by bandits; his body was buried in San
Terenzo ai Monti in the nearby province of
Massa-Carrara. Even after many centuries, the
townspeople remembered this good person and renamed
their town with his name - hence San Terenzo.
However, the origin of the name and the exact
chronology of this noble pilgrim's history still
remains uncertain. The oldest document which
mention's the town with its current name dates back
to March 6th, 1218 and is contained in the
Pelavicino document.
The fortunate location of San Terenzo with its homes
that rise directly from the water, the total
isolation of the town surrounded by its lush green
hills, made it an ideal refuge for poets and
intellectuals alike.
Villa Magni
"An
antique house, rough, with its feet in the water,
defended
by an evergreen mountain of oak
pines, with a terrace and little portico which lead
to the sea. More like a ship than a house!"
This is how Paolo Mantegazza
described Villa Magni during the period in which
Shelley and Williams lived in San Terenzo.
The Magni house originated as part of
a monastery of the Barnabite priests, but throughout
the centuries changed ownership many times, being
that it was desired as a residence by noble
families.
Its park is currently used for
several local events and also as an outdoor movie
venue during the summer months.
The
Characters
|
 |
|
Percy
B. Shelley |
San
Terenzo, at one point in time a small village and
independent township during the Napoleonic times,
began to be noticed thanks to poets like Shelley and
Byron, and not only.
Percy
Bysshe Shelley lived in Villa Magni, the white
house facing the sea with the arched
colonnade located at the eastern end of the town;
his wife Mary Shelley, author of the famous
novel "Frankenstein" also lived there with him.
Not too
far away in the little tower on top of Villa
Marigola, Sem Benelli wrote "La Cena delle
Beffe" while Paolo Mantegazza, a poet, scientist,
anthropologist, pathologist and hygienist, lived in
Via del Campo.
There is
a stone plaque along the walls of Via Matteotti
close to the church which commemorates Paolo
Azzarini "Ipsilonne", as a courageous sailor
from San Terenzo who was chosen to rescue
Garibaldi from the Tuscan coast to Portovenere.

The very famous anthropologist Paolo
Mantegazza stayed here at length and thereafter
decided to live out the rest of his years in San
Terenzo. He died in San Terenzo in 1910 and used
these words to describe the area. "You ask me
what and where is San Terenzo? I will tell you right
away: it is one of the most beautiful and dear
paradises that the sea conceals in its coastline, in
which two lovely things were born : Greek and Latin
civilization and Venus; which is like saying the two
greatest joys of mankind: science and love. San
Terenzo is a hidden treasure in between two blue
oceans which are the sky and sea; no other bathing
is as poetic or as fresh; the air is never too hot
in the summer not too cold in the winter; it is an
everlasting alternating of enchanting temperatures
which people fall in love with. The palm trees,
lemon trees and rose bushes flourish as if they were
in their own house and I, like a modest and fragile
human plant that I am, have also flourished here for
a quarter century, hoping to stay for another
quarter century. This is what and where San Terenzo
is".
The town of San Terenzo rises beneath
a promontory which is called Falconara (also known
as Fenociaria centuries ago). This town is located
at the extreme western side of the Gulf of Lerici.
The antique name of the town was "portiolo portus
olei", but later assumed the name of San Terenzo in
honor of a Scottish pilgrim who came through. We can
also find San Terenzo as a commercial reference at
the end of the 1400's when the Republic of Genova
was purchasing bricks and at the same time, the sand
from its beaches was used to cut marble from the
Apuan Mountains. Later on, Matteo Vinzoni, a
cartographer, traced a map of San Terenzo from the
end of the 1700's, seen as a little village which
was almost entirely located between the castle, Via
Trogu and Piazza Dentro which is known as Via
Azzarini nowadays.
The Land Loved By Shelley
The town, situated on the coastline
between two blue crystal clear bays known as Venere
Azzurra and Baia Blu, had already sparked the
attention of the romantic English writers back at
the beginning of the 1800's for the intense blue
color of its waters and its pink colored sand. Percy
Bysshe Shelley would vacation there with his wife
Mary and right in this village, unforgettable pages
of English literature were born.
|
 |
|
Mary Shelley |
Shelley
and his wife Mary stayed with another couple in
Villa Magni, a white house located along the
coastline, which at the time, was quite isolated
from the rest of town. Shelley left San Terenzo
onboard the "Ariel" from which he was shipwrecked.
People say that the spirit of this romantic English
poet still lives on between the inlets and the rocky
points of Marinella, which have maintained their
charm and bewitched this English poet. After many
years, a Swiss painter named Arnold Bocklin
captured the emotions conveyed by the coastline, the
rocks, and the vegetation on his canvas. Other
beautiful works of art which depict the San Terenzo
bay are exhibited in several Russian museums and
were painted by Nikolaj Nikolaevic Ge.
"I
still live in this divine bay, reading Spanish plays,
sailing and listening to the most enchanting music".
So wrote
Percy Bysshe Shelley from San Terenzo in 1822.
|